It was a rough time settling back into Slovakia. I got a devilish cough right after leaving Hungary, coughing up putrid yellow muck every couple minutes all day. Maybe I got it from drinking and smoking for so many days straight or maybe from the Hungarian Baths, either way it looks like it's here to stay a while, I actually know it will because this post is so long ago now, it lasted two weeks! Zane and I haven't been seeing much of each other because he's always on the other side of the city, but its cool because I get to talk to Pedro and check out more of the city on my own. Which isn't all that interesting actually, being in the industrial zone of the city and all. But people watching is always fun and highly informative. It was actually very pleasant outside today though, didn't even need my extra jacket or scarf when I walked to the super market to buy a water melon, which came from Brazil, beat and carrot juice in a tetra pack and a bag of oranges to boost my immune system. The watermelon was excellent! It was so good I ravaged through it in total absence of manners or common decency, eating it much like you see zombies munching down on fresh brains, gruesome and yet so refreshing... I was sure that I lost my scarf, which I've had for over 10 years now, my sister Michelle gave it to me for my birthday before going to study and work abroad in South Korea. I went back to the store to look for it, they hadn't seen it. So I bought another watermelon and pumpkin seeds, as I was putting the seeds in my laptop pocket of the pack I found the scarf! So happy about that.Anyway Zuzka's parents invited us to the countryside over the weekend where we'll be staying at the cottage they've been remodeling over the years. Looks like we've been recruited to help, should prove interesting. The day we left we all met at Zuzkas and then took two cars to the cottage. It was a short drive, 2 hours or so, with lots of highway and then a 40 minute drive through the Slovakian countryside, which was pretty standard as far as the sights were concerned, especially since it was night time. Entering the old house, one could see its features flowing from old rustic farm cottage with Soviet era decor to modern construction. It had a powerful wood burning stove that kept us all cozy and a lovely kitchen that had a dragon carved into the wall by Zuzka's father. We sat down for a candle lit dinner and some homemade palinka, the national liquor, while watching something on television in Slovakian, which I randomly guessed to be Final Destinations 5, and was right. Not that I've ever seen it, but it had all the classic signs of the franchise. A little chit chat and we were off to bed. The next day we all worked moving the building supplies from the shed into the second story window of the cottage. It wasn't very hard work but it was so cold that even with gloves I couldn't feel my fingers. Once finished it was time for food and drink, which always included polinka, no matter what.. Wake up? Have a polinka. Finish work? Have a polinka. Finish eating? Have a polinka? Finish up in the bathroom? Good for you, have a polinka... And on and on it goes.Zuzka told us about a place not too far away where the Bloody Countess of Slovakia once lived and tortured her victims. Having both fought this same Countess in Diablo II, a video released in 2000 on pc, and a game of some renown, Zane and I were very interested in her true history. So we got in the car and drove further into the countryside, eventually coming face to face with the ruined tower of evil. The verifiable history of the countess states that with the help of her aids, she was able to kidnap, torture and then bath in the blood of over 40 Virgins found in the villages surrounding the castle, and that these murders took place while the countesses husband was off at war. Needless to say the pictures and diagrams depicting these events were less than savory, and easily exemplified the worst attributes of human existence. Most of the tower remains buried to this day, so many invaders came through the area over the last 300 years that very little of the structure remains. A park service runs the ruin now, I think we payed 2.5€ each to get in. It was really interesting actually, being in a place repeatedly, digitally of course, and then to finally be in the actual physical space some 16 years later. Zane had lost the last nug of his tree somewhere and we looked for it on the way back to the car, we also looked for a place to eat but the city was dead. When we got back to the cottage he scoured the earth for that nug, eventually finding it against a fence boarding the neighbors yard, he was so happy then, like a child on Christmas morning. He went to enjoy the booty in the broken down barn next to the cottage and I went inside where dinner, warmth and Palinka were waiting...
The Hungarian Baths
When your waking up earlier than you should because you can no longer take in air without damaging your already completely dry throat, your probably dehydrated and should make the effort to save your own life. I reached this point by 5 AM and drink water continuously till 9, talking to the staff and eventually the hostel guests as they woke. Zane gets up at around 10 and stays in bed till 11:20. We gather our wits, make up a vague plan as to what were trying to do, our usual M.O. and then set off in search of food. We go to a Vegan restaurant I had looked up online, there we order a Vegan pizza, with spelt crust and cashew something cheese. The crust and other toppings were excellent, but the cashew cheese was unappetizingly sticky and extremely hot for quite a long time. Overall I'm happy with it though. Next we take a ride through the oldest, simplest and yet most beautiful subway system I've ever experienced. The entire cabin was super small and made of rich old wood, glazed over by many years of constant use. It was also very rickety and made a loud buzzing sound every time the doors opened or closed, like those you would hear in a factory. We got off at the hall of heroes stop and walked around the square where statues of these heroes lined a raised stone platform.
They were mighty looking men indeed, one looked like a naked angel holding a sword being held back by a woman, another a fanatical priest in flowing garb holding a christian staff, but most were steel wielding warriors. Behind the statues is a big park where the Hungarian Baths are found. It is accessed from our location by a bridge that you can cross by foot or car. As you cross there is fair size ice skating ring to the right of the bridge, and an elaborate water fountain to the left. We walked past the bridge and into the park where we blaze up before entering the grand establishment, architecture wise at least. It has several rings within the structure that are subdivided into other segments where special pools with varying temperatures, ingredients, and even abilities are to be found. Some were whirlpools, others saunas, infinity pools, jacuzzi's, cold plunges and of course private massages from the experienced professionals there. We went into this one sauna that was so insanely hot and humid we left in less than one minute. We were also in a sauna that changed between three different color lights, Red, blue, and yellow, we left that one in less than three minutes because the seats were burning our butts so much. The place has a lot of people there too, from all over the world. It wasn't the cleanest pool that much is sure, but the experience is well worth your time in Budapest. We stayed a little more than four hours and then returned to the hostel after once again getting a bottle of jin and juice. Once we sat down to start drinking our Canadian friends joined us, they got a bottle of white wine which they unanimously agreed was atrocious and were thus put off from continuing to drink much else. Zane and I went our own way to a multi story super club, with cave like caverns, themed rooms, and interesting bars, filled with drunk dancing people of all kinds. We stayed out till 1 or so and went to sleep, waking up at 6:30 to make the 8am train back to Slovakia. Which luckily for us, entailed no further security checks.
American Outlaws in Hungary
I had a long night out with a Vierka and two French couch surfers who are riding their bicycles through Europe for 6 months, thats these guys:https://m.facebook.com/Electripdream-246190632219484/?ref=bookmarks . It was rough having to be at Zuzkas for a ride to the train station the next morning, especially having to walk through the rain. We got to the station with less than 10 minutes to buy our tickets and board the train, so we split up into two different lines in case one was faster. With 1 minute to spare we stood at the platform, tickets in hand, the train was 2 minutes late. The cabin was clean, air conditioned and very nice in general, there were already four people there but we squeezed in, which was fine because the train would empty more and more on our several hour journey to the Hungarian capital of Budapest.When we passed into Hungary the border security guards got on our train and went cabin to cabin asking for "Papers please?" Zane and I totally spaced. "Um papers?" Having just crossed international borders without passports they could easily send us back to Slovakia on the next train, or worse, and more likely, detain us until confirming our identities. We both handed them our California drivers licenses hoping beyond reason that this would not spell disaster for us. "These will not work, where are your passports?" The black clad duo bellowed, each now resting their hands on their service pistols. "Were sorry we totally forgot them, we didn't even think about it." They looked at each other, said some scary sounding adjectives in Hungarian and continued in English "how long will you be in Hungary?" "Two days.." Another round of harsh sounding language and questioning fascial features to each other."If you travel internationally you need passports! Don't forget!" The large lady officer said, and then slided the door closed. It was a miracle of modern security standards for sure, had this occurred in the United States of America we would have experienced a very different outcome. The rest of the trip we wondered if they would change their minds and send us back. After this the train came to a slow and time consuming crawl through the suburbs of the city, an hour later we finally made it to Budapest. The train station there is actually pretty cool, certainly much better than the one in Bratislava. We made it to the city center and walked in circles around the block that supposedly had our hostel, once we found it, we checked in and met a very passionate and smiling Hungarian girl who worked there. She was telling us about all the pub crawls and crazy drunken nights she's had recently, how much she loved krakow Poland and that I shouldn't miss it for the world. We had a welcome shot with her of homemade Hungarian liquor and then in walks Barak! The Turk who I got all political and religious with at the couch surfing party in Bratislava, Lol what a coincidence. Then we have welcome shots with them. Also joining in are two Canadian girls whose first question for us is where they can buy tampons? As Zane would so aptly put it to me later, "this should have been our first clue.."Even though Hungary is the harshest on drug laws out of all the countries we've visited yet, Zane's priority is still trying to get marijuana from a friend of his that he met here the last time he came. Somehow we talk ourselves into bring the Canadian girls with us on our walk. They see a pharmacy and head for it while we continue on. The place we have to go is several blocks away and once we find it we almost don't get anything because we couldn't get wifi and were waiting at her door without any information or clues. So we buy a small beer from a bar to use wifi, contact the contact and zane meets her while I drink his beer. After getting the weed and liquor from the store, we head back to the hostel, at this point we see two grown women, obviously drunk as skunks, holding each others hands as one was about to black out, they were leveraging all their weight against each other until their hands slipped and they both fell backwards, one hitting her head on the uneven stone road right away and knocking herself out, the other landing ass first, tearing her pants open from the crack up. Im closest to her so I give her a hand up, while Zane and the girls tend to the other.One of the Canadian girls was obsessed with helping this lady, talking to her passed out body repeatedly in English as if it made any difference. "Honey I need you to get up now. Can you tell me your name? Do you know where you are?" This lady was literally out cold, and Canada just couldn't let it go. Finally a group of locals came and she woke up. For me this was the perfect time to walk away, but not for Canada, oh no, now that this barely conscious person was aware of her surroundings Canada had to make sure she could cross all her T's and dot her i's, in English of course, a language I'm sure she didn't speak, because her other friend, who never lost consciousness, responded to my questions in pure Hungarian. I tore Canada away at this point and left the Hungarian ladies in Hungarian hands, we then returned to the hostel. We smoke, drink our bottle of gin and juice, talk to a few people in our hostel, then go out to a few places with the Canadian girls. Zane also meets up with a polish girl who comes along with us, even gifting Zane her small bottle of Vodka. She seemed to really enjoy the Canadians company. We end up smoking hookah like sheiks in some dark corner of this extremely large, three story club, with the walls heavily drawn upon by staff and guests alike I imagine. They must have been going for the classic dark art noir of heroin come downs, because thats exactly what it looked and felt like in there.We play team foosball next, the results of which I can't recall. At which point Zane and I left to dance elsewhere, but we just ended up going to get pizza two different times, at the same place, before going to bed.