It was the day before the new year and I had met Cara, who used to work at the Gazeebo school for several years, she was telling me all about the way things used to be at Esalen, a very common theme for conversations here, and while we were talking another group of people that had come to Esalen together from San Francisco joined in the conversation.
They wanted to know if I worked at Esalen, a question I was asked frequently, must have been the vibe I put out. Anyways I told them I did indeed work there and they were quick to befriend me, wanting to pick my brain about anything and everything they could regarding the place. They told me it had been there collective dream to come together for many years and only now had been able to make it a reality.
"You've come at the perfect time." I said, "Ohh? Why is that?" they asked. "It's always the perfect time to be at Esalen, no time is ever the same and everyone you meet, everything you experience, is meant to be." I said. And we decided to meet back up later.
A lot of people come from that city in particular, and have been since before even the institute existed, due in large part because of San Francisco's gay population, which is free to express itself at Esalen, but also because the city harbors liberal ideals, and has for a very long time. The most famous part of this attribute is when Hunter S Thompson was the gate guard for Esalen, and a group of gay men had tried seducing him into the hot springs, he refused and then they attacked him, throwing him over the side of the cliff. Mr. Thompson reportedly got his gun and shot at the group.
Another incident or perhaps the same one I'm not sure also involves a group of gay men who refused to leave the tubs when asked, this is before the institute existed, when Michael Murphy went to the state police for help the trooper told him, and I'm paraphrasing here from the story Michael told me, "I ain't sending my men down there with all you weirdos. Got any guns?" he said, "no" said Murphy, "Well if you want my advice, get yourself some guns, and run those weirdos out of there." and that's exactly what Murphy did.
Now back to the group I was with, we finally met up again and they asked me if id take them into the canyon, to be their guide. I happily accepted, Cara came too. We took off from the lodge together and I led the group down the newly paved hill next to the laundry room, through the old gate with a rock attached to a metal pully that kept it closed. We stopped a moment on the bridge that took us from one side of the property to the next, which had Tibetan prayer flags strewn across it and was actually quite narrow, with only one guardrail on the eastern side of it.
I've taken people there before since who refused to pass over it, feeling too uncomfortable with it to take the risk. It's not very high, but if you fell I guarantee it would not be a fun experience, even if you somehow managed to avoid all the rocks and hit the water, you'd certainly hit a rock immediately after that as the water pushed you down the river.
After that I took the to the side of the river to show them the pipe systems that draw water directly from the river and feed all of Esalens needs. There is a concrete reseviour system built into the side of the hill which water pools into, then a mesh sifts out any debris and pulls the water into holding tanks, above the property, where they are treated for legal reasons, the minimal level possible so I'm told, and then put into other tanks for distribution through out the entire institute.
One of the things that makes Esalen so special is the amount of fresh spring water that comes out of the ground at all times. If you read the book Esalen: America and the Religion of No Religion, you'll find that it says millions of gallons come out of the ground alone daily. But what makes the river water special is that it is some of the cleanest water in California, because there are no farms or industries up river to pollute it.
Anyways, I showed them that and then we continued on the trail, passing the hobbit house to the left, a marvelous little wooden cabin that only the chosen few it calls to it may live in. It says, private residence do not disturb, or something like that, but that doesn't stop people from going in anyways. Like Pippen from lord of the rings, they just can't help but look.
After that we rounded a few corners and I stopped them at the place where Richard Price, the cocreator of the institute, was found dead, supposedly from a fall while hiking, or murdered, depending on who you talk to. Why would anyone want to murder him you ask? Well, the way I heard it, it had something to do with the way Esalen was structured, the age old questions of "who has the power, who controls the way things are run?" As I've said before Esalen is a fascinating place full of wonderful people, but also surrounded by an air of intrigue and avarice. It's a gathering place of very powerful people and organizations, even the CIA and KGB met here to discuss "world peace" during the cold war. It's also a place for people to gather in order to find themselves. And many, are willing to fight in order to keep a part of it for themselves.
While I was explaining all this to the San Franciscans, I noticed that everyone was enraptured by my every word, not just out of scholarly interest but in... more profound ways, something about it made me suspicious, but I said nothing and took them across the fallen tree that brought us to the souther side of the river again. From there we entered the large open area I had first visited on the Solstice, we hung out a short while and they wanted me to lead them further on.
"I'll go with, yeah sure, but this is the furthest I've been, so we'll be discovering it together." I said. "That's fine, lead the way." They said. And so we went 10 minutes or so further until reaching a dead end to the trail following the river, the only way forward was to go up a rather steep and treacherous path that cut back and forth up the hillside. Cara turned to me and said she was rather tired and would rather leave, but the group wanted to continue on. Having led them that far I felt responsible to them but they insisted I go with Cara, so I did.
On the walk back we talked about psychedelics and their roles in our lives, she admitted that she was curious about how they would be for her after a bad trip so many years ago. "Place and Setting, Mind and Being." I told her.
We went to the lodge and wrote out what we want to leave behind in 2018 and what we're embracing for 2019, then shared our results. setting fire to the slips of paper the moment before midnight December 31st 2018.
Later the next day the group returned to me and said they were sorry for how they were acting yesterday, "Yeah I noticed something was off." I said. "yeah... we were all high on acid. I should have told you." I laughed and shook my head, "Yeah that would have been good information to have..." And so it was, one wild year come and gone in the outside world, passing into the next within the bubble within a bubble, within a bubble, that is Esalen. And just like the year before, but even more so, I could have no idea then, what was in store for me there.
P.S. If your interested in more in depth views of Esalen, written by those who lived and worked there, you may find great interest in the following webpage http://www.esaleaks.org/ but you wont find much because the site was mysteriously hacked and shut down.