No Plan Japan 6 : The Capsule Corporation

In true form to my mission statement for this trip the first plan I made was not for me, Unplan hostel was too far and to expensive for my liking. There's no way I'm spending $50 a night for a bunk bed. I may not be slumming it as I did when I traveled the world an age ago, but I'm not high balling it either. My sister tried sending me to the Cerulean hotel, "where all the models go." That would have been cherry if I had invested in Bit coin on the ground floor back in 2011, as I had been ready to do but didn't, such is life. Since I'm not rich the super models and their $900 a night suits on the 48th floor above the Tokyo skyline will have wait, perhaps indefinitely, and that's fine. Its not my scene anymore anyways.

I chose instead to follow my friend Victors advice and find a Capsule hotel somewhere nearby. A savings of $20 may not sound all that much, but when your goals are to travel long term every dollar counts. Especially in a country like Japan. If I was in south east Asia $50 would get me a damned palace with personal guards and room service. Happy ending included.

Now I'm sure many of you have no idea what a Capsule hotel is, nor the extent to which it has shaped Japanese culture, Dragonball Z I'm looking at you, but needless to say it is a phenomenon here that is found nowhere else. To explain the origins ill quote Nathan Kip,

"The concept of capsule hotels can be traced back to Kisho Kurokawa, a visionary Japanese architect who introduced this unique accommodation model. Kurokawa’s design philosophy was rooted in the Metabolist movement, which emphasized adaptable and modular architecture to meet the needs of rapidly growing urban populations. He envisioned compact, efficient living spaces that could provide essential amenities while optimizing space usage."

In addition to the capsule/pod hostels there is also the capsule toys craze which pervades the minds of children and adults alike. In short they are larger versions of gum ball machines which are each of a certain theme, containing intricate toys and items which for anywhere between 80 cents to several dollars you can take a gamble at getting the item your interested in.

Getting back to my hostel you might wonder what sense it makes for a 6'2" guy like me to save some money getting into a pod designed for Japanese business men, well I can tell you I definitely regretted not having the room to fully stretch out, having to sleep at a diagonal and even then being 2 inches short of being able to lay out flat. Its not that the bed was uncomfortable or the sheets and pillow unappealing, its just I need the room to sprawl, to get the kinks out as it were.

Along with the tight quarters what really got me was the open window leading right into the alley of eternal karaoke blasting into my ear. I suffered through it till 2am and decided I needed some peace and relaxation or I was going to lose it. Leaping from my pod 6 feet from the ground, I chose the upper pod as I didn't want to hear people above me, I hit the well cleaned gray carpet and wondered down two levels to access the male only Onsen, Japans well known Sauna and bath combos, where I showered, hit the jacuzzi and then the hot pool, ending it with the sauna which was 200 degrees. Usually I can last at least 20 minutes at that temp, but after 40 hours without sleep, air travel and jet lag, well, I probably lasted two.

Although I didn't sleep afterward I did feel more relaxed. I got out of bed at sunrise and considered staying another night, but the price increased from 30 to 40 and I was willing to chance a change. After finding the closest vegan options nearby I went into the morning streets of Tokyo and somehow found the CBD and Vegan treat shop and got myself some goodies.

From there I found another capsule hotel several miles away in a quieter part of town, and got directions from several bus drivers who even got off the bus mid journey to point out the transfer id need to take. Two buses later I recognized the tiny Capsule hotel by the street view online and got a room for $30 again.

This places pods were several inches longer, thank goodness, and although the baths were far more limited, it was quiet and cheaper even on weekends, which were coming, so I decided to post up and explore. Luckily for me the famous Ueno Park was only two blocks away, a lovely lake surrounded by museums and Sakura trees coming into bloom. I didn't know it then, but id be sticking around for a while...